Świnoujście rowerem: Ahlbeck, Wolin, Karsibór | Violca

Zachodni kraniec polskiego wybrzeża rozsiany na kilkudziesięciu wyspach — kilka bardzo różnych tras w promieniu jednego dnia.

Świnoujście by Bike: Ahlbeck, Międzyzdroje, Wolin and Karsibór

Świnoujście sits right on the German border and is spread across dozens of islands, which makes for several very different rides within a single day: a coastal promenade to Ahlbeck, a forest stretch towards Międzyzdroje and Wolin, and a quiet route through the reed beds of Karsibór.

Świnoujście – Ahlbeck: The Short Border Route

The easiest starting point is the promenade route from the Świnoujście–Ahlbeck border crossing — an easy loop through the town and along the coast, with no real climbs. Along the way you'll pass the villa architecture of Osiedle Posejdon, the greenery of the Spa Park, and the brick fortifications: Fort Zachodni (West Fort), Fort Wschodni (Gerhard's Fort), and Fort Anioła (Engelsburg) — modeled on Rome's Castel Sant'Angelo, with a distinctive lookout tower you can ride right up to the gate of, and a small café at the entrance for a break before carrying on.

Continuing along the coast towards Bansin and Ückeritz on the German side, the route turns noticeably more gravel-oriented — partly paved, partly gravel right above the cliffs, with open sea views for most of the ride.

Międzyzdroje and Wolin – A Forest Stretch for Gravel

Past Międzyzdroje, the R-10 route heads into the forest, and this is where things get genuinely interesting from a gravel perspective. The surface switches to dirt and gravel, winding between pines through Wolin National Park, heading inland towards Wolin Island itself — no real climbs, just a few small rises and that particular quiet you only get in a pine forest by the sea.

On the Świnoujście–Międzyzdroje stretch, it's worth detouring to the Underground City on Wolin Island — a complex of five bunkers connected by underground corridors.

One of my favourite parts of the whole route is the ride onto Wolin Island itself — the bike path alternates between paved surface and a sandy farm track, running alongside rapeseed fields on one side and the lagoon visible in the distance on the other. In spring, with the rapeseed blooming yellow under a clear sky and a single tree standing alone on the horizon, this is easily the most scenic stretch of the whole trip. On the island itself, it's worth climbing the wooden lookout tower for a view over the lagoon and surrounding forest — a good spot for a short stop and something to drink.

Karsibór – Reed Beds and a Route Along the Lagoon

Karsibór is a different story altogether — a separate island district of Świnoujście, unrelated to Wolin Island. It's the starting point for the blue cycling trail that loops around the Szczecin Lagoon, continuing on a dirt road through reed beds and pine forest towards Przytór, where swans regularly float along the calm water right by the stone breakwater. It's a route for anyone who likes less signposted, rougher stretches — the pavement quickly gives way to a narrow, grassy double track among old trees, right along the stone groyne protecting the lagoon shore.

A Few Practical Notes

All of these routes are manageable on a gravel bike without much technical preparation — none involve serious climbs, and the biggest challenge tends to be the sea wind rather than the terrain. The forest and gravel sections (Międzyzdroje–Świnoujście, Karsibór) are noticeably more pleasant on wider tyres than on road bike ones. Spring is a good time to go — fewer tourists on the promenade, rapeseed fields in bloom, and cool Baltic air that makes longer rides easier.

The Whole Baltic Starts (or Ends) Right Here

Świnoujście marks the western edge of the Polish section of EuroVelo 10 — from here the route runs through Międzyzdroje, Dziwnów, Kołobrzeg, Łeba and Ustka, along the entire Polish coast. For me, it's a route best explored in stages.

Wioletta Rodzicz